Method of making shoes



'f2 E a. A. Mmmm METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed Seapt. ll, w24

im ..,",v "l, "fw elected .ll/iler., o, lilith.

- .applica .oii tiled Scpteiiier shoe making machinery came to replace the' skilled hand shoe maker.

Une of the most generally desired features in shoe making has been the production ot close drawn sole seams, particularly along the sides of the toot at the ball portion. This involved not only a matter olf appearance in reducing the proii'iinence ot' the seam., but involved an importance in actual structure because when auch seams are close drawn the foot is supported upon more level sole surface and when the seams. are properly disposed that sort tained even after long periods of Wear.

This is particularly tree with regard to the lasting,- operation as generally practiced by modern machinery and in present day shoe practice. 'lhe pulling over of the np Per and the seeming;0 of the same by tacks or other fastenings, where the insole has the al feather, has had a recognized tendency to leave a sole structure easy to curl and cause the 'feather edges of the limer sole to produce uncomfortable and annoying Wrinkles, bunches oi: ridges, which cause the slice to run over at the side and form callouses.

in accordance with the common practice it is necessai;7 to lill the bottom of the shoe up to the level of such ridges. Various elforts have been made to avoid thie one of which has been the practice el edge lasting, or in other words, the avoidance oi' the drawing over of the upper and fastening of it to 'the face of the sole.

My present invention involves tion ot such shoes by machines and .'.tz'ietorv methods of' well'known and cstablishedtypes and Without the necessitg/ oi? newly created machines or special lasts or appliances. lo other words, in. accordance with my invcotion it possible to orodtice shoes of the the produc 'bandaging the foot ace will be main--y necessity,'

desired character 'with shoes pulled over and lasted by tacks or other temporal1 means in the ordinary manner andy the ordinary machine and equipment sue as is available in the usual shoe shop.

lily invention while involving several .tealiirce of novelty7 is pie-eminently unique in its radical departure fromA ordinary pracu tice in regard to contour of the innerjsole in relation to the edge of the bottom face of the is will appear in the further discession of my invention, l deliberately eliminate portions oit' the socalled feather of the inner sole so that its contour is definitely brought well inside' of the edge line of the last. ln. so doing l causey the foot of the Weaver in eil'oct to take up the character istie :function of the leather at such points, thus cliioinateing the feather as a factor moet liable to be cui-lcd or drawn up at such points and thus bringing' the Whole sole structure down to a flat an intimate footing by which the sole of the toot is completely protected, lwhile leaving the upper to perform its naturalfupper function or'merely to the protecting soles.

.dos illustrative ot .my invention l willfshow and discuss in my present application a characteristic Welt shoe structure and method oi malong the same by Which invention may be readily understood anc by which ot i: forms or types of shoes in accomience therewith may be readily made.

Throughout the specication and. drawings like reference characters are employed to indicate corresponding parts, and in the drawings by usih Eig, il is a View of an inner sole in accordance with my invention applied to the bottom of a last lig. is a view of the same lasted.

Fig, 8 is a eeetioo on the line 3M-3 of .l'iz

et is a bottom vie-e7 oi the same waited.

is a partial section of the same on the last, showing the temporary securing means for lasting..

Fig. 6 is similar view with. last removed securing y lill channeled as 2 in ordiiiary 7.o contoured at 3 to bring 'the if the sole l inside the edge line time of the last L, so as to 1V shoulder, The inner id on the last just as it it tour, leaving exposed pororfiinary lastliottoin where its ntoured baci: as above described. over the upper e which may be i temporary securing ineens, suoli usual manner, as indicated and 3g This brings the upper-4 toured points over the edge c and og shoulder ci" the bottom face i and over the inset contoured er sole l. The welt is their toning; through the upper the ontoured edge of the sole l and the The overhangiiig shoulder Y having the edce of the insole set the edge of the bottoni face of the le serves in. the absence ot the feather as ii-d'e to facilitate the application. of the n strip to the inset edge o'l the insole. This draws 'the Welt 5 close up to the contoured edge ot the sole fl drawing in the u Ader and in contact with the bottoni is last and around the edge e so int of this stitich line is set in under the normal turn of the e per t the edge e of the last, so that ioniliined thi-witness 'of the Welt and upper in@1 equal substantially to the thickness insole, the feather portion of the teli heretofore commonly used, being ,te-ii. Ilmo as has been before eX- ed, is very desirable feature which ,t r inriously attempted but never be re obtainable by ordinary `methods and ichiiies in shoernulring. The insole edge preferably set in from the edge of the o-in. face or the lest at the ball portion the toot, but ii; desired the insole may ie in around the bottom face or". the

' forward of the heel,

)im ice the Welt is applied und the Jmi, stitched in and drawn around n ing shoulder the margin of n orf the last, While the leather ten'ipered condition. Thereafter g machine employed which ass )inning a neat, permanent. and clean cut eend in the upper below the sole or botf efcut down as :it l', to 'forni or bearing- 'for the flange vcti the rlihis brings the counter in line with oi" the Welt as shown in Fig S, i unal, tight 'oiiit at the heel.

s now supplied With its outer d 'otherwise inished 'with the lust removed, us in.r icu'ted in Fig. 6. It will ,ed now ns indicated by the arrow X turn the upper is capable of overlying the stitch line und extends under and in Contact with the bottom face of the last and around the edge thereof, and in the saine plane as one side ot the insole; this portion of the upper extends parallel with and overlies and is in contact with a portion ot the Welt.

I have endeavored in Fig. 7 to illustrate the position of a foot in a shoe with relation to the stitch lino indicated at S, in dotted lines. This is brie'l is the general method of procedure to secure such a slice structure. In practice, I preferably contour my inner sole l which is formed of heavy stock so that it'has a. slight bevel or projection at the sole contacting edge. 'Iliis tends to Afurther close the seein and give a smooth uniform finish to the interior of the slice. Y

I also ind it of great advantage to form my welt 5 as a` folded strip of thickness oi' about one-half the ordinary Welt thickness. By so doing, iny'sti'tches pass substantially at right angles to the grain of the leather instead of parallel therewith, as in cut or slitted Welts. I do not intend ,to be limited herein to a folded Welt as I may use any other tpye of Welt, but in my present combination I find the same of very high ef lency in, its cooperation between the upper and the contoured edges of the inner sole, whereby the parts may be drawn together under a heavy tension to give greatiatness of seam and to bring a Welt and inner sole into the same plane. After the edges of the upper have been trimmed I cement down the flap of the channel and preferably level the shoe. Vhen, therefore, the outer sole 6 is applied, it has a perfectly flat bearing on the inner sole so that the two soles are in intimate Contact and the foot of the wearer is protected by what is practically one uni form solid piece of leather leiiibly bandaged to his foot in such a way that his foot in vfilling out the upper next to the sole finds it smooth bearing even in the absence of the feather at that pointu In fact, as is Well known, the feather under the heat and moisture of the foot, is apt to become softened and iii drawing to assume undulations or wrinkles, or even to turn up a sharp edge which is extremely unpleasant When the shoe is again put 0n.

Shoes in accordance with my invention yield a maximum of comfort and present an cxtrciiiely finished custom made appearance. Plaster casts of shoes subjected lto longir wear shows incredible smoothness oi. inner sole.-

Not only is the comfort of such shoes greatly increased over usual constructions,

' but viewed from the inside the sole presents 'emesso Furthermore a. pert of the oliereeteristic umfornnty of shoes in accordance Wlth my .invention results from the reduction of the thickness of the heel seat by slaiving clown the inner soie to about the thickness ofthe' l ange of the munter, as shown in Fig. 8. By so doing, esstateci vshove, I am sible to bring the breast of the heel in substantial elinement with the Welt leaving no displeements in the Welt and no displacements in the lift of the heel. V

Various modications may 'obvionshv be mode in the alegres and extento oontouring orremoval of the feather. The contouring may be carried entirely ebout'the shoe or may be omitted et the toe. This is especially desirable Where a soft or unboxel toe is de sired. All such Inodications and variations and combinations are to oe understood as part of my invention es defined in the up pended claims.

What I therefore claim and desire to secure by Letters PatentA is:

1. :inthe method of making a weltshoe, that improvement which consists in preparing on insole hsm'ng' en inner channel eX- tenciing e substantiel distance oelow its outer face snol having s portion oai its edge face the. full thielness of the insole formeel to he inset from the hottom edge of the isst. in

temporel-ily fastening seicl insole to the lest, vin tsmpereriiy lastmg en upper over the 1nset erige of the insole, ond in uniting a. Welt to the insole by stitching through the upper anti the edge face ofl the insole along said channel so that the 'inseam thus formed is set in from the outer edge of the bottom face of the last, and lies in e plane intermediate ofl the upper end lower faces of the in so e.

2. In the method f making a welt shoe, that improvement which consists in preparing an insole having en inner channel extending a substantial distance below its out. er face and having e portion of its edge face the full thiclmessof the insole formed to be inset from the bottom edgeo the lest, in temporarily fastening said insole to the last, in temporarily lasting an upper over the in.- set edge ofthe insole, in uniting a welt to the insole by 'stitching through. the upper :ind the edge face of the insole along said channel so that the inseam thus formed is set in from the outer edge or the bottom fece of' the last, and liesa in a plane intermediate of the upper and lower faces of the :inm sole,r and in making the lower edge of the upper and lining and the inner edge of the welt lie substantially ush with the outer face of the insole.

In 'testimony,whereoi I o'ix my signature in presenceof two Witnesses.

CHARLES A. MORNa Witnesses:

Vro'nomn LAwnnN, Ensm i?. NYHAN., 

